Temple hopping in old Kuching (Pt. 2: The Hong San Si Temple)

The Hong San Si Temple, at the junction of Wayang Street and Ewe Hai Street, was originally built by Kuching’s Hokkien clansmen in 1848, and was renovated several times the latest being in 2003. The host deity of this temple is Kong Teck Choon Ong. Like many Chinese deities and demi-gods, there is a legend behind his transfornation from mortal to divinity.

What is amazing about this temple is the stupendously ornate roof. For adorning the top are a collection of mythical animals, godly figurines, heavenly bodies, endless curving ribbons and all manners of statues of Chinese mythology arranged in a burst of colours like a carnival on a rooftop. As architectural style goes, this one is an overkill example of function follows form, but then again, this is a Chinese temple.

Visitors and tourists are often seen gawking at the elaborate roof and snapping away with their cameras before stepping into the temple. As Chinese temples do not have large assembly hall, the foot print of the building is relatively small, but what they lack in size, they make up in the contents and this temple is no exception.

The temple has two courtyards, the outer and the inner. The outer courtyard facing Wayang Street and the temple’s opera performing stage across the street is where the huge seven-foot-tall incence urn stands, with two fierce looking stone lions guard the two front corners of the temple ground.

Visitors enter the temple through the several doors, the main entrance being painted with the usual door gods. Chinese door gods are invariably Guan Yu, the god of War and a dark complexion bushy beard warrior, both cut an intimidating pose to deter would be trouble-makers.

Stepping into the inner covered threshold looking into the open air inner courtyard, beautiful murals and paintings are seen everywhere. There are two shallow ponds, one at each side of the inner courtyard where tortoises and turtles are kept, presumably to be released on auspicious day as a sign of atonement.

From the inner courtyard, walking in towards the main altar is the inner sanctum of the temple. Two columns with intricate carvings stand at the side and a table with offering is in the centre. At the back, the altar where the gods sit solemnly as if watching the every move of the people inside his sanctuary. Once could not but speak in muted tone as an atmosphere of profound gravity is enhance by the dim lightings in this section except the bright highlights shining on the godly figurine sitting on the altars.

The birthday of Kong Teck Choon Ong is celebrated annually by his devotees on the 22nd day of the second month of the Lunar calendar. This is an elaborate festival in which other temples and similar religious bodies participate in a street procession with traditional dragon and lion dances, cultural troupes, pantomime of characters from the Chinese mythology parade through the street in colourful spectacle. In the evening there are also Chinese opera shows on the stage opposite the temple and always attracts a huge crowd.


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