
Mother orangutan with junior
What is it that cause visitors to travel thousands of miles and ensconced themselves among sweaty Borneo jungle to see some apes peeling bananas and scratching its back for lices?
The iconic orangutan is in fact one of the top reasons for them to set foot on this fabled isle. In fact this cuddly ape rivals China’s panda and Australia’s koala bear on the most-lovable animal sweep stake.
The place to see this Borneo apes is at the Semonggoh Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre, about 20 km outside of Kuching, the administrative capital of Sarawak. The centre began as a halfway house to care for baby orangutans and other animals orphaned by poachers before they are release into the wild, but ended up a permanent fixture for its denizens over the years. There is a colony of about 20 orangutans roaming freely in the area and will only show up during feeding time.
In order not to miss them, it is better to visit them during feeding time and during non-fruiting season, as during a fruiting season, there will be enough wild fruits in the jungle for them and they might not heed the park warden’s shout for lunch. If you take a bus, you will be dropped off at the entrance to the park, then it is a 40 minutes trek along a narrow jungle road with some section unshaded, till you reach the park rest area with cool shades and a souvenir shop. Get a cab in the city which will take you right here if you do not want to be drenched in sweat.
Do go well before the feeding time of 9am and 3pm. The souvenir shop there has some interesting Sarawak-themed items on sale and very friendly trained staff. There are a few crocodiles at the enclosed menagerie, but that is about all of the other wild life in the so call animal orphanage.
Just before the feeding time the park warden will gather all visitors around and gave a short briefing before leading them on another trek of about 5 minutes through denser but cooler jungle path to the viewing platform at the edge of a hill drop, where about 30 feet away, there is a smaller platform for the orangutan to land from their swinging branches and vines.
Visitors are advised to keep their conversation to whispers as too loud a hubbub may discourage the approaching apes. Then standing on the wooden stage with the cache of fruits, a park warden will shout what sounds like “hoaaaaaaahhhhhhhhh”, which I believe is orangutanese for “Come and get it!” or “You got visitors!” or something to that effect.
Visitors can easily see the moving trees and the crashing branches with the approaching orangutans, some large other small. There are even baby orangutans clinging to their mothers’ bosoms for dear life as the latter swing from trees to trees. Not all the apes congregate at the eating place at one time, some may be waiting for their turn from a distance!
It is an interesting sight seeing the animals peeling off skins of bananas and discarding them before dropping the fruits into their mouths. A few other younger and smaller size ones may trying showing off their swinging skills, while sometimes a few even approached near to the crowd, much to the latter’s excitement of course, as according to the warden, it is not everyday one gets to see the apes up-close and personal.
While orangutans are not known to be an aggressive animal, the park wardens do advise the visitors to give them a wide berth, just in case. I had on a rare occasion experienced the ecstasy of sitting next to one in a park’s bench, when one of them wandered from its lair and decided to pay a courtesy call on its admirers. Each of us stealthily moved to within three feet of this hairy creature and grinned deliriously while having our photos taken.
A close encounter with an orangutan is a profound experience for many people. Do Not leave the island of Borneo without at least setting your eyes on one.
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FACT FILE:
mini van leaves at 8am (& 2pm ? James - check the afternoon mini van) from outside tourist information (by the Brook Memorial). Trip takes about 45 minutes (each way) and total cost is rm20 per person. Pay on return trip.
Entrance is rm3
Take water with you. Wear walking shoes/boots as it can be muddy.