The Kuching Waterfront was dubbed “Effendi’s Folly” when it was built in 1995, this sliver of delightful parks, pedestrian walkway and esplanade finally vindicated its originator many times over by being the favourite place for out-of-town visitors and tourists to relax and watch the stress-busting sight of the tambang sailing in the lazy flowing river after a hectic shopping spree at the Main Bazaar across the road.

Indeed spending RM98 million to transform a strip of river bank with decrepit warehouses and abandon jetty and an assortment of eyesores into an glamourous park was nothing short of scandalous as tourism in the city had not yet taken off in a big way. But Effendi, the suave and urbane Minister in the Sarawak’s cabinet decided to labour on despite the detractors’ ridicules.

Fast forward to present day, the Kuching Waterfront, succeeded so spectacularly that it won several regional tourism product awards, so much so that the government had decided to acquire the adjoining Brooke era wet market and extend the length of the esplanade for another 400 metres.

Beginning at the edge of the wet market at Gambier Street, the Kuching Waterfront stretches 800 metres along the former river bank of Sungei Sarawak, running parallel to the Main Bazaar all the way to the Khatulistiwa Restaurant, a cone-shaped roofed building, typical of the tribal house of the Bidayuh, next to a high rise condominium the Riverbank Suites.

The Khatulistiwa is a good point to start a leisurely walk of the Waterfront as you proceed westward along. As you walk along, tiny ferry called tambangs carry residents from the kampong across river to the market to do their shopping and errands in town. There are several stalls selling food and drinks along the way. If you hanker for heavier meals, the next stop is the James Brooke Bistro, a delightful oasis bordering the bustling traffic of Main Bazaar. Fares include the much touted Sarawak Laksa, a spicy vermicelli soup dish.

The next building on your trek is the single storey Chinese History Museum, which house many interesting artifacts on the early Chinese immigrants to Sarawak, a must visit for history lovers. More food stalls greet you as you continue, but there is also some stalls selling souvenirs and trinkets, though their varieties cannot match the shops found along Main Bazaar, just across the road.

Next structure coming up is a mini performing stage for variety shows and singing, if one is lucky, a singing competition may be in progress, but the whole place will be very crowded. At this point it may be worth while to look back at the step that you have covered, for the backdrop of the Riverbank Suites and other high rise building form the iconic view of modern day Kuching, to which many a souvenir group pictures are are taken.

It is inevitable that a visitors centre finally materialises before you. Maybe by now, a little cooling down in air-con ambiance is a good idea for you! Walk inside and find many stalls again selling souvenirs and trinkets and the ubiquitous t-shirts and blouses. A few steps away is the historical Square Tower, a boxy white washed tower, formerly used in the Brooke era as a guard post and watch tower.

Square Tower

Nearby the river, a long concrete series of steps lead down to the edge of the water, The steps are used as seatings for spectators during the popular annual Sarawak Regatta. A few bronzed casted crocodiles lie guard on the steps make an interesting prop for photographers. If he is lucky, a visitor may be rewarded with a spectacular sunset view from this vantage point too.

Along the river edges are several jetties for the tambangs to land and pick up or drop off passengers. The boatmen would be most happy to ferry visitors across as it means extra income for them. Indeed, a ride in these flimsy boat is quite an experience and visitors are encouraged to give it a go.

At the end of the Waterfront is the old wet market which is slated for the wrecker’s ball.But do walk across the street to visit Gambier Street and savour the century old shophouses and the hubbub of an Indian spice bazaar. Indeed Kuching has more than what you bargained for!

Kuching Waterfront

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