Kubah National Park - The First Ascent
The Kubah National Park is one of the smallest park of Sarawak, at only 2,230 hectres but is the most accessible at only 22 kilometres from Kuching city centre. Such short distance means it is possible to be within the comfort of one’s hotel in the city and slightly over half an hour later standing in the thick undergrowth of a steaming tropical rainforest. In fact this abrupt change of environment overwhelms many a visitor, myself included.
As I eased my car into the park’s parking area and open the car door, a cacophony of insect sounds assaulted my sense of hearing. Next, the brooding hills behind the trees seem to taunt and challenge their intruders. It took me a while to get my nerve settled down as I begin my ascent. Once really out of sight of the park HQ and the chalets, the feeling of vulnabilty sank in. The talls trees blocking out the skylight makes the jungle dark especially when the sun is behind clouds, and seem to watch every step I took. It was only a feeling of unfamiliarity I told myself. As minutes ticked by, I gradually grew accostomed and felt more confident.
There are several walking trails ranging from 30 minutes to 3 hours (one way) and I chosed the easiest, the Main Trail. Some of the trails lead to scenic waterfalls, others to hill tops with panoramic views. I would say only the reasonably fit should attempt the longer trek as it is definitely not a walk in the garden.
The entrance to the Kubah National Park. All the trails begin near the Park HQ (building with the cone). Choose which trail to take before you begin with the map provided at the entrance. Registration for day trippers is required at the guard kiosk.
Into the deep jungle. This is how the Main Trail looks like. The gradient is from gentle to steep, with ropes and side rail provided when necessary. No actual climbing is necessary.
There are giant trees with monsterous buttress roots like this all along the way. Creepers and vines crawl and tangle with the jungle undergrowth and moss provides excellent photographic opportunity for the avid lensmen.
There are several chalets for rent to inteprid sojourners who seek a certain intimacy with the jungle. However all creature comfort of civilizations are provided for here. Airconditoners, cooking facilites, piped waters etc, but bring your own food.
Kubah National Park is famous for its palm, and this fan shaped frond is one of a hundred or so vaireties. The temptaton is to pluck it and use it as your personal fan, BUT remember the motto: Take nothing but photographs, leave nothing but footprints!
Many rotton tree trunks are covered with moss like this. But even healthy trees get covered by them, due to the weak sunlught shining on the jungle floor and the humid atmosphere present.
Trails are clearly marked at the beginning of the tracks, but once inside, they tend to not appear when you need them most! However trails are clearly cut out and only the impertinent stray. Besides, cell phone signals are strong even in some part of the trails as the hill top is a Telecom station!
Jungle streams like this gurgled pleasantly as you approach them in your trek. But during dry seasons they may dry up. The larger waterfalls and pools are popular places to take a dip after a weary walk.
The Matang Family Park is a popular weekend recreation spot for Kuching residents and is situated just at the junction of the road leading into Kubah National Park. Ther is a larged wooden platform with rest area and canteen for visitors. A short flight of steps down is a bubbling stream strewn with moss covered boulders, which provide a great bathing area amid the jungle shades.
This is the main pool, with its inviting clear, cool waters. No chlorine, no sound of pumps, no lifeguards and no dress code (yes, bring your sarong, auntie). But on weekends this spot is practically full with screaming kids, so go during weekdays and non-holidays for some peace and solace among the greenery.
Play Indiana Jones here! For the more adventurous, a trek along the stream can be great fun as discovery of even more beautiful bathing sites awaits. But watch out for slippery moss covered boulders and rocks.
Watch your steps! And the rock! Tree roots are beginning to take over the steps. Angkor Wat, the early years probably started like this.
No sooner had I began my trek than this denizen of Kubah greeted me in my path, all 6-inch of gleaming armour and funky neon coloured feet. Unfortunately, Kubah has a dearth of fuana, though there are reports of sightings of macaques and bearded boars among others, strays from Bako perhaps?
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